In its simplest form, a rabbinical joint is simply a notch at the end or along the edge of the piece and into which another board is glued. But like most wooden joints, the rabbi has his own variations.
A rabbit or folded joint is often wrongly called a rabbit joint. I don’t know exactly where this confusion comes from (rabbits have big pointed ears and teeth with fists), but I’ve decided to clarify the situation for all misinformed readers before proceeding with this article.
If you take a quick look at your home, you will probably notice that this seal is used on kitchen cabinets, door frames, window frames, bookcases and most other furniture. It is popular because it is quite strong and easy to make.
The main part is cut to a depth equal to the thickness of the material to be received.
It can be milled by hand, with a table-mounted router or with a jigsaw.
Because the seam at the end is a long grain (which is not properly glued) – nails, screws and sometimes dowels are used to reinforce the adhesive.
The rabbit can be cut into any piece, depending on where the final grain size should appear. If the bookcase is high, the last grain can be placed at the top and the left side is as clean as in the picture on the left.
The depth of the part is normally proportional to the thickness of its counterpart, while the width may vary. Ultimately, however, sufficient equipment must remain to provide satisfactory support.
With the double connection a rabbit is cut on both counterparts. This band is stronger than that of the main rabbit for several reasons.
Rabbish Hinge – Double rabbi : The double joint makes it possible to move the joint of the planks on the outside of the square and provides a larger bonding area for a stiffer joint.
A second rabbit provides an extra adhesive surface for the joint, and an extra 90 degrees shoulder prevents the joint from coming out of the square. For such a small change, it adds a lot of strength to a project that has already been completed.
Careful measuring and cutting is necessary to ensure that the joint fits without play when cutting by hand. They are much more precise, whether they are on a table saw or a milling machine.
This is an excellent centrepiece for the top corners of large bookcases and cabinets that do not have a front frame. The connection can be further strengthened by evenly distributed plugs, which are pushed in from the side.
A forest rabbit may look heavy, but with a good table saw or a good milling table it’s not that scary. Once the equipment is properly configured, any number of these connections can be interrupted quickly and accurately. I’d rather carve a slander rabbit on a table I’ve seen for myself.
The rabbi’s bayonet. – The rabbi’s tick. The hinge of the edge seal looks like an edge seal, but is much stronger and easier to level when glued and fastened.
When it comes to rabbit joints, the tick is perhaps the most attractive rabbit. It effectively hides the final grain and gives the joint a pleasant tapping appearance. You will find this link in many high quality cabinets and drawers.
For the bayonet, the rabbits are first cut into two matching pieces and then the angles are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. The thickness of the parts to be assembled is generally the same.
A piece of rabbit is cut to half the thickness of the material, with the width of the rabbit corresponding to the full thickness of the material.
In the other part, the rabbit is cut to half the thickness of the material and half the width. Rabbits can be sawn with a table saw or a milling machine, depending on what is preferred. Then the ends are poured to complete the connection.
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